The Art I Live

Friday, October 29, 2010

In an African Context

Oct. 29, 2010 Ghana…….

Hello from Ghana! So I’ve been in Ghana for almost three months (exactly 3 in another week). I have one refrain in my head that makes days both frustrating and funny. My closest Ghanaian friend tells it to me all the time: “THIS IS AFRICA.” In many ways it means “suck it up this is how it is here.” Sometimes it means “just laugh honey.” On the opposite side of this refrain sometimes sits my laughter others my response: “when do I go home” lol.

Here are my most recent adventures and stories:

Strike! (no just kidding, no sike it’s for real, actually no one knows, uh yes there is a strike)

That’s basically how the university faculty strike in all of Ghana went. Hear-say, they say, he say, she say, there was a strike. Eventually there was an official statement that in fact the university faculty all over the country were on strike for not being paid a pay increase they were promised a long time ago. So what exactly does this mean? All the university lectures refused to teach. The strike continued for a solid three weeks. No one attended class and campus was pretty vacant for the first week. After which the international students became afraid this would elongate our stay and/or disrupt our academic progress. Considering of my duration here and my purpose as a student, I was ready to pack my bags and head home. The second week International Programs at the University of Ghana arranged for international students to have private lectures. We did. Mines were very boring but I do believe I learned more during those two weeks than I have the entire stay so far. Due to the low number of students (sometimes just myself) we were able to hear, see, ask questions, and actually understand what was being taught. In my African dance class there was actually room to dance and enough air in the un-air-conditioned room to breath. The bad part was that professors found it appropriate to make us attend extended lectures that met at 3 hours a session to make up for lost time. It was not effective in that way because of course any person will stop paying attention if made to sit and listen to someone talk for 3 hours!
After three weeks the university policy was that the school would close but instead the faculty returned to the classroom and the academic calendar was extended. International students (ME) are not supposed to be effected by the extended schedule but some faculty is trying to say we have to attend class until Dec. 2, 2010. I find this ridiculous and terribly organized because we’ve done more than enough. It is especially grueling when you don’t feel like you’re learning much. My departure date is Dec. 12, 2010. It will not be compromised!!! I hope to stop attending class Nov. 12, 2010 which was the original date. I feel like the faculty were justified in their purpose for striking but I’m not sure if they achieved anything. Seems like the made more work for them and complicated my life.

Honestly, I would not recommend any student in need of fulfilling academic rigor to study in Ghana. Sorry.

The Attack of the Tro-Tro

To begin a “tro-tro” is a primary source of public transportation in Ghana. It is essentially an overcrowded mini-van that you pay no more than fifty US cents to ride pretty much anywhere in the city. They have little chairs that fold up on the end of each row to allow for as many people as possible to ride. You stand some place on the road and wait for the tro-tros to come by. There is a young boy/man hanging out the side of the sliding door yelling the destination the driver is going to. He is called the mate.

So what had happened was………

My friends and I got in a tro-tro back to campus. I was wearing a long, flowing pink dress. It’s really hard to find tro-tros with several seats empty, so we cram into one. I sit on the last seat before the folding one. Our stop comes. We yell “bus stop” to tell the mate we want to get off. I stand up, crawl over a woman’s lap and hear a loud ripping sound. A man that was in my row yells at me to come back. Mine you, I’m all of one foot from my seat hunching over in this little van. He begins to pull me back so he can pull my dress from in between the folding chair. Did I mention the metal in these tro-tros is typically rusty and sharp? So, I’m caught. A nice old guy is trying to pull me out. I’m sweating. The driver is ready to go. The guy rips my dress out and I have two large holes in my dress. The guy who helped me says “oh it’s spoiled.” I smile, laugh to myself, and hop down from the tro- tro. “THIS IS AFRICA.”

Playing Chicken

As a child growing up in inner city Indianapolis my siblings and friends used to play a game called “chicken” where the object was to run across the street with cars coming without getting hit. So, in Ghana crossing any road at any time is an extreme game of chicken. Believe you me, I am one terrified pedestrian. There are no pedestrian rights here and very few signs that tell you when to cross. The few I have seen don’t work. I have nearly been run over about three terrifying times. Once the car stopped like five feet from my body. People here drive extremely fast no matter where they are going so you have to run for dear life to cross the rode. I’ve adopted the habit of waiting for a Ghanaian person, greeting them, and saying “Hi Auntie/uncle can I cross the road with you?” They usually take my hand and say “let’s go.” My friends laugh every time but hey I’m still alive! “THIS IS AFRICA!”

Traveling by road

When I first arrived I was surprised by the amount of cars on the road. Then I learned that when you leave the city of Accra there are not many paved roads. So…….you’re in for one bumby ride Traveling by road in Ghana is like riding a wooden roller coaster with no seat belt. I nearly got whip flash riding to a city called Kumasi. I was in the back of the van and with every bump I hop and jerked my neck. Paved roads and side walks are something we take for granted in America! But of course….. “THIS IS AFRICA!”

Village Visit : Aygementi

Recently I visited another village to supposedly do some water sanitation work. Due to disorganization, road delays, and lateness that did not exactly happened. The one thing I did learn from this visit is that all things have to be considered in their own context. My America eyes see things like traditional villages (houses with mud walls, natural water source, limited resources, etc) and think the people are so bad off but that’s not necessarily true. Because people don’t have a lot or what we consider necessities doesn’t mean they are not happy or making it. For instance, in this village we met a woman who made annually about $25 from selling cassava. She had four children. I thought, wow that’s so little how can she live? But after discussing it I learned that she is a farmer, so she doesn’t have to buy food. She can make her own clothes. She owns her own home, so she doesn’t have to pay bills. Essentially she has what she needs. I don’t think that this should be used as an excuse not to help others but we should not be so critical of things we don’t fully understand.

General Reflections from my daily journal:

• Ghana is like the USA 200 years ago. She still has time to grow.
• I was asked why I didn’t want a perm when I went to get my hair braided. Funny, right? I thought this was Africa?
• The “female urinal” is like peeing in an animal stall. I prefer the bush!
• African dance is much fun but hard work! Sweat baby, sweat! AFRICA! Lol.
• Many educated Ghanaians strive to be western.
• “African men like their women fully endowed, round, and sweating.” –Ghanaian professor.
• The sun here is a smiling torture.

Poem, Titled: Accra

This is New York before the lights
Chicago before the buildings
This is every ghetto on a sweltering day
This is the south before King or Jim Crow
This is Africa.

Monday, October 4, 2010

October Living in Ghana

Blog Hog Spog….what happened to my blog!!!

Oct.3, 2010

Here it is the genius of another month! Wow time is flying by. Everyone I talk to back home implies that they know how hard it must be here because things are so slow. Well, things are slower but indeed my time here is speeding by. Below are a few things I’d like to reflect on.

Ghanaian homes:

I’ve been to two homes. They were both large cement buildings with huge cement fences. Both of the houses I went to were in nice neighborhoods. By nice I mean most of the houses around were large and well kept. All of the roads are pretty much dirt road with all the challenges of holes, stones, etc.. Yes the houses had electricity capabilities. During my stay at both places the electricity went out. It’s a city wide thing that affects every single part of Ghanaian life. (Homes, businesses, universities and schools) The other day while I was sweating and dancing to some African drum beats the electricity went off. It’s really hot and extremely dark when that happens. But back to the houses: They were comfortable places to be. It’s always nice to get out of a dorm and into a “home setting.” The families were very welcoming and hospitable. I was in no way hungry when I left. Let me tell you Ghanaians really love to eat a lot of food and if you’re a visitor you’ll be expected to eat as much if not more. Both times I had difficulties meeting the food challenge! Once I had a dish called Banku which is like a sour dough ball and you eat it with soup. You have to dip the dough in the soup and eat it with your hands I didn’t really like it but I forced myself to eat enough not to be considered disrespectful. At the other home I had (omg where do I begin) fried plantains, rice, rice, and more rice, chicken, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, ice-cream. Oh before that as an appetizer we had huge eat sandwiches. When I frowned in bloating fullness and refused to finish my plate (only because I told her not to give me more and she keep dishing it out) my Ghanaian friend remarked “This is Africa!”  I was just thinking this mean exercise.

Ghanaian Women:

I want to comment on how amazing strong and innovative the women are here. They are the faces you see at the markets selling, washing clothes, in the streets carrying goods for sell on their heads, the teachers, the cooks, the seamstresses, the mothers (carrying their children on their backs as they cook, sell, or sew). I like to think of them as the face of this nation. Everywhere I go I see and meet women sweating and working yet smiling (not always). When I went to a friend’s house she allowed me to help prepare a Ghanaian dish that is essentially rice balls. I have never worked so hard to fix food and I’m sure I was getting the simple version. There are much more difficult dishes like pounding fufu. I’ve seen people do it in various markets. When I see a woman walking down the street with large gallons of water on her head I feel like this is a place of strength. Of course to the women here there is nothing abnormal or super human about their daily routines. They just get up, get out, and get it done. As a foreigner I see it as an image that nothing is impossible and we (Americans, perhaps African American black women) are quick to limit ourselves or accept weaknesses that could be over come.

The University of Ghana:

Oh boy, I have no idea where to begin. Well classes are going well. I have yet to get used to the over crowed lecture “halls” and the chatty students. I’m enjoying most of the actual information but the way the classroom is conducted and structured is annoying. When lights or fans don’t work it’s a hassle to learn. Instead of complaining I try to write and process the experience. Overall, I’m happy to be able to be here and working towards my graduation this May but I could really do without the classes. But hey, at least I’m here.

Performing Arts:

One of the absolute coolest things I’ve done sent my last entry has to be going to a couple of Ghanaian dance performances. They were so very cool! I love the music and the art here. One show included some contemporary African which got a little weird but I’m all down for art. Seeing these shows made me so happy I did not choose to stay in the West to study abroad because experiencing completely foreigner art is awesome. I can’t wait to go to the art galleries and see exhibits that are all African pieces. It’s so rare to see people of color in art museums in the States. I’m taking it all in. Honestly, as far as my art goes a lot has yet to produce its self. I journal a lot but the “artistic” stuff is processing right now. I’m just taking it all in.

Names:

Ghanaians typically have a day name (after the day of the week you were born), a Christian name (thanks to colonization), a name after an important person in their family, and their father’s surname. I’ve meet so many Ghanaians named really western things like Michael, Patrick, Frank, Catherine, to name a few. It’s sort of odd in a way. You just wouldn’t expect that. Names are very important here because they tell where a person is from and give insight into their family history.

I am Tuesday born so my day name is Abena. There are a million people with the same days names because obviously there are only 7 days in a week. Lol. It’s really cool to know that your name has a meaning greater than just the letters though. When my program discussed this I was happy to be able to tell people my entire name means something and I know the history. Camea (my mother’s name and great grandmother Carry Mae) Lona (my grandfather and uncle Lonnie) Osborn (my dad’s surname, from the plantation owner our family traced docs to).

Me:

I’m in good health and good spirits. I get a little tired of eating rice everyday but I’ve been cooking a little bit so it’s ok. Not to mention, African renditions of pizza and burgers are available at a high price. The fresh fruits are nice too. The cleanliness and smells of things here are not on my list of things to adapt to so I deal with that daily. I’ve been spending a lot of time thinking about a whole lot of things! I will start volunteering/teaching in a local school this week. Guess that’s all for now!!!

See you soon!

Camea